Having been lucky enough to visit the beautiful city of Edinburgh over the last few days, I have come to the conclusion that it is a Rugby town, or at least that is what they would like you to believe.
The first thing of note that I could see on the skyline as I drove into the city was Murrayfield, home of the Scottish Rugby Team, in fact this was the most prominent sight from the hotel window and it is an eyesore. Don’t get me wrong I like stadiums, but perhaps because it isn’t a football stadium it seemed a bit dull and ugly.
What I really wanted to see were the stadia of the Scottish capitals two professional football sides. Hibernian and Heart of Midlothian. In the centre of Edinburgh, steeped in history and fantastic architecture there is a distinctly Bohemian feel, and you could be fooled into thinking that there were no football clubs in the area. Overshadowed by their gigantic and famous Glasgow neighbours, both Edinburgh clubs have have joined the ranks of the Scottish Premier Leagues also rans in recent history.
It was no surprise to see many Old Firm shirts in the city centre, and not one of the local teams, or that the cities many souvenir and tat shops are selling Celtic and Rangers paraphernalia and not that of the Hearts or Hibs. In a city that homes over 480,000 people, it shows the level of interest in the clubs that neither team breaks an average of 12-14k people for home games. But don’t that let you think that their isn’t a vibrant footballing rivalry alive and well in the back streets and suburbs!
The first Edinburgh derby was played on Christmas day in 1875, making it one of the oldest rivalries in World Football and there are similarities with the more world renowned Glasgow derby. Hibernian like Celtic were formed by Irish immigrants, reflected in their name and colours while Hearts were founded by the indigenous Scots.
Tynecastle, the home of Hearts and Easter Road, the home of Hibs are situated just under four miles apart. While the city and it’s proudest features are clear for all to see, you have to hunt a little further to find the homes of these two proud football clubs.
Situated in Gorgie, in the West of Edinburgh, Tynecastle is one of those “blink and you’ll” miss it grounds. In an area that is largely downtrodden, the stadium and it’s situation has a distinctly traditional feel and more importantly something that all good football grounds should have. Character. It reminded me of the Dell and to a lesser extent Kenilworth Road, almost looking out of place in it’s location, but at the same time very much part of the area.
In contrast, Easter Road has a much more modern feel to it. Situated in the North of Edinburgh, in Leith, the stadium is all together “cleaner’ and perhaps easier on the eye, more in the light and bright St. Mary’s style(complete with Megastore) than the Tynecastle red brick. Similarly though, it is also hidden away, slightly easier to notice than Tynecastle, but more like a built for purpose stadium area.
What was for certain from both grounds, that I certainly didn’t get from Murrayfield was that aura of atmosphere that you only get at a football stadium. So, while the city seems intent on celebrating it’s Rugby heritage(and why not), it’s “dirty secrets” are bringing pleasure to far more people on a regular basis!
Tynecastle hosts the next Edinburgh derby on April 9th. You can keep your Old Firm, this is the one I’d like to be at…